How to Grow Vegetables in Pots and Containers

The one rule that matters more than any other: go bigger than you think

Almost every container-growing disappointment traces back to one thing: a pot that was too small. Small containers dry out fast, run low on nutrients fast, and restrict root growth — all of which show up as stunted plants and a disappointing harvest, even when everything else was done right.

If you're choosing between two pot sizes, take the bigger one. The extra compost costs very little next to the difference it makes to what you actually harvest.

What size pot for what crop

Crop	Minimum pot size	Notes
Herbs, salad leaves	20–25cm	Shallow-rooted — width matters more than depth.
Radishes, spring onions	20–25cm	Quick crops, fine in fairly shallow containers.
Dwarf beans, peas	25–30cm	Compact varieties bred for containers do best.
Peppers, chillies, aubergine	30cm	One plant per pot — they don't like root competition.
Tomatoes (bush/dwarf)	30–40cm	Full-size cordon tomatoes need 40cm+ and a sturdy support.
Potatoes	30–40 litre bag or bin	Start with 15cm of compost, earth up as the plant grows.
Courgettes	40cm+	Genuinely large plants — needs a big pot and a sunny spot.

What grows easiest in containers

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Tomatoes

One of the best container crops there is — dwarf and bush varieties especially. Needs a sunny, sheltered spot and consistent watering.

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Peppers and chillies

Genuinely thrive in pots, partly because the warmth a container holds suits them. A sunny patio or balcony is often better than open ground for these.

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Salad leaves and herbs

The easiest possible starting point. Fast-growing, shallow-rooted, forgiving of imperfect conditions. A single trough can keep you in salad all summer.

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Dwarf beans

Look for varieties specifically described as 'dwarf' or 'patio' — these stay compact and don't need the tall supports climbing varieties do.

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Potatoes

A genuinely rewarding container crop. Grow bags or large bins both work — start with a shallow layer of compost and keep 'earthing up' as the plant grows.

Three things container growing changes

Watering — more often than you'd expect

Containers dry out much faster than open ground, especially in summer. Daily watering is normal for many pots, and small containers in full sun may need it twice a day. Check by pushing a finger an inch into the compost — if it's dry, water.

Feeding — compost runs out of nutrients fast

Compost in a pot has a finite supply of nutrients, and watering washes them through quickly. Start feeding 4–6 weeks after planting, roughly weekly for hungry crops like tomatoes and peppers.

Winter protection — roots are more exposed

Plant roots in a container are far more exposed to cold than roots in the ground, which is naturally insulated. Move pots against a sheltered wall, or wrap them, if you're overwintering anything.

Frequently asked questions

Can vegetables grow in pots?

Yes — most vegetables grow well in containers as long as the pot is large enough and gets enough sun. Tomatoes, peppers, salad leaves, herbs, dwarf beans, and even potatoes all do well in pots. Larger or deep-rooted crops like sweetcorn or main crop potatoes are harder to manage in containers.

What size pot do I need to grow vegetables?

It depends on the crop. Herbs and salad leaves are fine in a 20–25cm pot. Tomatoes, peppers, and dwarf beans need at least 30–40cm. Potatoes need a container or bag of 30–40 litres. Bigger is almost always better.

Do container vegetables need more watering than ones in the ground?

Yes, significantly more. Containers dry out much faster than open ground, especially in summer — daily watering is normal for many container crops, sometimes twice a day in hot weather for smaller pots.

A daily plan for your pots and containers too

Vercro tracks every crop you add — pots and containers included — and tells you exactly what needs doing today, wherever it's growing.

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