Vercro

Allotment

How to plan crop rotation on an allotment

The short answer

Divide the plot into three or four areas and move each crop family on every year: peas and beans, then brassicas, then potatoes, then onions and roots. It keeps soil problems from building up. Courgettes, squash, salads and sweetcorn can go wherever there is room; rhubarb and asparagus need a permanent bed.

Crop rotation is simple to understand and hard to keep up. This is what it is for, what it can and can't do, and how to keep track of it from one year to the next.

Why rotate at all

Some pests and diseases live in the soil and attack one family of plants. Grow that family in the same place year after year and they build up. Move it on and they have less to feed on. The ones that matter most on a UK plot:

Soil problems crop rotation is aimed at
FamilyMain problemHow long it can lastSource
Cabbage family (including radish, swede, turnip)ClubrootUp to 20 yearsRHS
Onion familyWhite rotAt least 15 yearsRHS
Potato and tomato familyPotato cyst nematode (eelworm)Up to 10 yearsRHS
Carrot familyCarrot fly (overwinters in soil), violet root rotViolet root rot: several yearsRHS, AHDB
Potato blight is often put on this list, but the RHS says it overwinters mainly in potatoes left in the ground and arrives mostly on the wind. See potato rotation.

The other reason is nitrogen. The RHS advises leaving pea and bean roots in the soil when you clear them, and its plans put brassicas after them. After a crop grown for its pods the gain is modest (Garden Organic), so it helps rather than replaces feeding.

The four-bed rotation

Peas and beans

Peas, broad beans, French and runner beans

Leave the roots in when you clear them (RHS). Brassicas follow.

Brassicas

Cabbage, broccoli, kale, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohl rabi, oriental greens, radish, swede, turnips

Clubroot is the reason this group moves. Liming acid soil is part of the RHS advice.

Potatoes

Potatoes and tomatoes (peppers and aubergines can go anywhere)

Eelworm is the reason. Lift every tuber so blight doesn’t carry over.

Onions and roots

Onions, garlic, shallots, leeks; beetroot, carrots, parsnips, celeriac, celery, parsley

White rot for the onion family; carrot fly for the carrot family.

The RHS four-year plan. Read down a column to follow one bed.
YearBed ABed BBed CBed D
Year 1Peas and beansBrassicasPotatoesOnions and roots
Year 2BrassicasPotatoesOnions and rootsPeas and beans
Year 3PotatoesOnions and rootsPeas and beansBrassicas
Year 4Onions and rootsPeas and beansBrassicasPotatoes
The RHS four-year plan. Read down a column to follow one bed.

Three areas instead of four? See the three and four bed plans, laid out side by side.

Rotate by family, not by what you eat

The groups follow plant families, and some crops are not where you would expect. Radish, swede and turnip are brassicas, not roots. Beetroot is in the beet and chard family. Chives and leeks are onions. Tomatoes go with potatoes. The plant families guide lists them all.

Crops that sit outside the rotation

The RHS says cucurbits, salads and sweetcorn can be grown wherever convenient, merely avoiding growing them too often in the same place. Perennials such as rhubarb and asparagus need their own permanent bed.

  • Courgettes
  • Pumpkins and squash
  • Cucumbers
  • Sweetcorn
  • Lettuce
  • Endive and chicory

Radishes used to appear on this page's “grow anywhere” list. They are brassicas, so they belong with the cabbages.

What rotation can't do

  • It isn’t a cure

    Clubroot and white rot outlast any rotation once they are in a bed. The RHS calls rotation impractical for white rot once present.
  • It doesn’t stop airborne disease

    Most garden blight arrives on the wind from other plots (RHS). Rotation doesn’t change that.
  • It won’t fix poor soil

    Legumes add a little nitrogen. Compost and feeding still matter.
  • It doesn’t survive a lost notebook

    The plan only works if you know what grew where. That is the hard part.

The biggest challenge: remembering what grew where

Most rotations fail on memory, not understanding. By November it is hard to be sure which bed had the brassicas, and in two years it is harder still.

Vercro keeps a record of what grew in each bed as you use it. When you plan a bed, it checks the family that grew there within about a year and can name a free bed where that family hasn't grown, so you are working from records rather than a fading memory. It won't plan next year's rotation for you. The free rotation checker runs the same check for one crop.

A year of records, not a three-year chart

Vercro's check looks back about a year. It doesn't claim a multi-year memory it doesn't have yet.

Frequently asked questions

How many years should you rotate crops?
The RHS publishes three- and four-year plans. Four years suits potatoes best: the RHS advises at least four years between potato crops against blight, and five to six where potato cyst nematode is present.
What crops need to be rotated?
The four RHS groups: peas and beans, brassicas (including radish, swede and turnips), potatoes and tomatoes, and onions with roots. Courgettes, squash, salads and sweetcorn can go wherever convenient.
Does crop rotation get rid of clubroot or white rot?
No. The RHS says clubroot spores can last up to 20 years and white rot at least 15. Rotation helps stop them building up; it doesn’t clear a bed that has them.
Can I rotate crops on a small allotment?
The RHS says rotation suits all but very small vegetable gardens. On a small plot, at least keep each family out of the spot it grew in last year.

Keep going

Where this comes from

Crop windows, growing times and plant families come from Vercro's own curated crop catalogue, the same data the Vercro app uses. Where a published source says something different, we show both rather than choosing the convenient one. Reviewed 19 September 2026.

Keep a record of what grew where

Vercro keeps each bed's history, so when you plan your rotation you are working from what happened, not memory. It doesn't plan the rotation for you.

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