What to sow in July
July is later than most people realise for sowing — there is still a useful window for fast crops and overwintering brassicas. The key is knowing what will have enough time to mature before the first frosts.
Sow now for overwintering plants that will crop next spring. Sow in a seedbed and transplant in September.
Still time for a late sowing direct or in modules. Will be harvesting by autumn and right through winter.
Sow direct for fast-maturing autumn roots. A quick crop — ready in 6–8 weeks from sowing.
Sow little and often every two weeks for a continuous supply. Avoid full sun — bolt-resistant varieties help.
One of the fastest crops you can grow. Ready in as little as 3–4 weeks. Keep sowing through July.
Sow in light shade to slow bolting. Choose heat-tolerant varieties like 'Lollo Rossa' or 'Little Gem'.
Early July is your last realistic sowing for a harvest before first frosts. Sow direct where they are to crop.
Last chance for a late sowing. Will mature in autumn — small, tender roots are often the best.
A late July sowing gives you young carrots in autumn, often avoiding the worst of carrot fly.
Sow direct now to avoid bolting — early-sown fennel tends to run to seed before bulbing.
What to harvest in July
July is one of the busiest harvesting months of the year. The risk now is not failing to grow things — it is failing to pick them fast enough.
Lift once the lower two or three leaves have yellowed. Don't wait for all the foliage to die — the bulb wrapper will split.
Check by scraping soil from the side of a plant. Harvest once the skins don't rub off. Eat fresh — they don't store.
Pick at 15–20cm. Check daily in warm weather — they go from ideal to marrow-sized in 48 hours.
Pick regularly to keep the plants producing. Pods should feel plump but not stretched.
Last of the broad bean harvest. Pick before the scar on the bean turns black for best flavour.
Cut-and-come-again varieties can be harvested repeatedly. Avoid harvesting in the heat of the day.
Best harvested young — tennis ball size or smaller. Twist off, don't cut, to prevent bleeding.
Bulbing onions can start coming up this month once necks soften and tops begin to fall.
Soft fruit is at its peak in July. Net quickly — birds will take them faster than you.
Key jobs in July
The jobs that keep the plot productive in July are mostly about maintenance — feeding, watering, and keeping pests and disease in check.
Second early and maincrop potatoes still benefit from earthing up if they haven't been fully covered — this prevents tubers turning green.
Irregular watering causes blossom end rot and split fruit. Water at the base, not the leaves, and aim for consistent moisture rather than occasional drenching.
Once first fruits set, switch to a high-potash liquid feed (tomato feed) every 7–10 days. Both crops are hungry feeders in full production.
Cordon (upright) varieties need weekly pinching of sideshoots — the shoots that emerge in the angle between stem and leaf. Bush varieties don't need this.
On tomatoes, remove the lower leaves as they yellow to improve airflow and reduce blight risk. Don't strip too many at once.
Weeds compete hardest in July's warmth and light. A hoe used shallowly in dry conditions is faster and less disruptive than hand-weeding.
Late blight can appear on tomatoes and potatoes in warm, humid July weather. Look for dark patches on leaves and stems. Remove affected material immediately.
Morning watering reduces evaporation and keeps foliage dry through the day, lowering disease risk. Avoid overhead watering on hot afternoons.
Basil, coriander, and other herbs become woody and bitter once they bolt. Regular cutting encourages bushy, leafy growth.
Cabbage white butterfly lays eggs from now through summer. Check undersides of leaves weekly and remove eggs and caterpillars by hand or net plants.
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